ABOVE: (L) Wiring and Light Boxes. (R) Testing Lighting.

ABOVE: Close up of light boxes.

ABOVE: (L) Front window box. (R) And how it looks from outside.

ABOVE: (L) Finished white around windows. (R) Covers on light boxes.

ABOVE: (L)Closeup, sealed light boxes. (R) Testing armature fit.

ABOVE: (L) Lights in dark. (R) Looking head-on.

ABOVE: All windows are glowing!.

ABOVE: Note subtle color variations.

ABOVE: Comparing room lights off and on.

ABOVE: One more closeup.

PLEASE CLICK ALL IMAGES TO ENLARGE

Below 5/31/2005 UPDATES

UPDATE: 06/05/2005 - What a great weekend, finished all the electronics!! Here is a summary of accomplishments this weekend:

1. Finished the light boxes
2. Built and ran all LED lighting connections for saucer
3. Connected all LEDs through a distribution bus, connected to boxes
4. Covered all light boxes (this really makes the windows glow!)
5. Cut out light boxes for bridge
6. Built all LED connections for the bridge (wiring up tomorrow)

Well, this pretty much finishes up all the work on the lower saucer! It's great to see it getting this close. Completed the wiring for the bridge, and plan to get that finished up tomorrow. All that's left is to sand and paint the upper saucer,then the biggest job of all, glueing it down, filling the seam all the way around, and do a finish painting. Then join the engines, and this baby will be done!!

UPDATE: 05/31/2005 Almost ready for the electronics!! The following steps were completed this past week:

1. Registry NCC-1701 decals and 'inspection door' decals
2. Painted the impulse deck
3. Added windows (read more about this below)
4. Started on the 'light boxes'.

Some folks have asked about the windows. Here is the basic process, refer to the images on the LEFT. After the windows are all cut out and filed, I put some low tack tape on the front of the windows. I then apply a small amount of "dental acrylic" into the windows. I then tap around the windows to even out the amount. Then, a few drops of 'monomer' is added, wait about 5 minutes, peel the tape off the front, and you have some windows. (This is a very tedious job, because for some reason, many times the windows 'frost' over, instead of form a nice, even opacity. Therefore, there ARE flaws in some windows, but at this point, I don't have the patience to make every one perfect! I've now added the 'light boxes', and these will hold the light from the white LEDs. I'll have a top, and a back where the LEDs will come in. Beginning on that tonight.

UPDATE: 05/24/2005 - Pretty much done with the lower saucer paint work!! Just have to add the registry # decals. Here's a quick breakdown of how this paint process evolved.
1. After the base coat, I marke the gridlines w/ pencil.
2. I then shot the base coat over the gridlines until they were almost gone.
3. I used the insulation pad (foamy) from my airbrush to 'knock down' the finish, and gently re-expose the gridlines, but they are barely noticeable.
4. I then painted the 4 'smoke bands' around the saucer, using some gray, green, base and lots of thinner, and gently built up the bands. The effect was great.
5. Next was the 'landing doors'. I masked them off, added the darker gray, then misted back some base color.
6. After that, the curvilinear red lines were added, using yellow as a base, then red.
7. Finally, another overall 'finishing sanding' with the foam to smooth everything out.

After Wonderfest, I'll begin the electronics. Stay Tuned!!

UPDATE: 05/22/2005 - Finally back to work. Got a new Airbrush (IWATA Eclipse) to make this job easier. Did a final base coat on the lower saucer. Penciled in the "Longitudinal Gridlines" (I know, you can debate it all day long, but they WERE THERE on the original model). After I get the 'latitude' lines added, I'll then airbrush back over the lines so they will be barely noticeable, but subtle.

I also cut out the light boxes from styrene stock. These will be built up on the inside to house the LEDs that light the lower windows.

Next up, I'll be adding some of the 'smoke rings' to the saucer, adding the registry decals, filling the windows, then working on the lighting.

I also added some pics to compare the size of the new "1701 REFIT" model from Polar Lights to this model to get a sense of scale.

UPDATE: 04/24/2005 - Spent a lot of time cutting out the windows for the lower saucer. You'll notice in the pictures, the process is to drill out the windows first, then go back with flat files, and file EACH window out. This is a long and tedious process, but the end result looks great.

Next, it was time to finish sand the Saucer, then throw on some primer, some more sanding, and another primer. I also sanded, masked and primed the 'Bridge' section. That is as far as I am today.
ALSO, I just received my acrylic "Planet" dome, so I'll begin finish sanding it, priming, and painting a planet face. It will go on the base of the stand for the ship.